Mes-a-round with Canyonlands

Mesa Arch at Canyonlands National Park | TeamTravelsBlog

The Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands gives you views of the Colorado and Green Rivers, beautiful overlooks and unique points of interest like Whale Rock and Upheaval Dome. Of course, a stop here wouldn’t be complete without photographing Mesa Arch.

Canyonlands National Park Highlights on Sunday, September 3, 2017

  • Mesa Arch
  • Grand View Point Overlook
  • Buck Canyon Overlook
  • Upheaval Dome
  • Whale Rock
  • White Rim Overlook (sign reads “Hiking Trails”)

Sleeping in the car has its advantages! After the financial savings, the next biggest is once you’re awake, you can start moving right away without delay. We followed the GPS and took the most direct way from the Grand Canyon to Canyonlands. We retraced some steps by driving back through Kanab, passing Zion, Bryce and arrived across the street from Arches National Park after 5 hours. One thing to note is we lost one hour when we crossed back into Utah from Arizona. The other most important thing to note is the drive on I-70 is exhausting. There are signs reminding drivers to stay hydrated and to pull over if necessary. This road allows you to legally drive 80 mph! Make sure you have water and gas before making this long drive because there aren’t many options.

It is super important to know that Canyonlands has two completely different park sections and they are not close to one another. The section in the north that is relatively close to Arches National Park is called Island in the Sky (this is the section we went to) and the section in the south is called The Needles. Similar to the other national parks, it’s worth stopping at the Visitor Center to talk with a ranger, use the facilities and get a map. We experienced a cool small world connection here where the ranger’s son lives in Virginia and went to George Washington University for undergrad, which is the same school Mike and I attended for graduate school. If you want to check out a map ahead of your trip, here’s a good one: https://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/upload/canymap.pdf

We stopped at the most notable place, Mesa Arch first. Since we arrived in the early afternoon, it was extremely hot out so we loaded up with sunscreen and wore our hats.

Mesa Arch at Canyonlands
Mesa Arch at Canyonlands | TeamTravelsBlog

Mesa Rock is particularly popular for sunrise and sunset views, but it was nice even in the middle of the day. You can hike around the arch, pose for a picture in the archway or use the arch as a frame for what’s beyond. Once we were back in the car, we continued to the fork in the road and headed left. We popped out at the Orange Cliffs Overlook and then continued to the Grand View Point Overlook.

Grand View Point Overlook | TeamTravelsBlog
Grand View Point Overlook | TeamTravelsBlog

This is a great spot to catch a glimpse of the Colorado River and to try to find a car or two driving below you on White Rim Road. We found a white SUV that looked like a speck. On your drive back to the fork, Buck Canyon Overlook is another good point of interest if you want to hop out of the car and take a few pictures.

The main road wasn’t busy, so we drove back to the fork and headed left. We got out of the car at the Aztec Butte for a quick picture, but didn’t hike here. Instead, we drove to the end of the road and stopped at the Upheaval Dome. There are two theories about the upheaval dome – personally, I like the meteorite theory. If you’re interested in learning more, you can check out the NPS site.

Upheaval Dome | TeamTravelsBlog
Upheaval Dome | TeamTravelsBlog

The trail here is relatively short and has a moderate incline to a good viewing point. We followed the signs to the “First Overlook”, since that’s what the ranger at the visitor center recommended.

Retracing our drive, we stopped at Whale Rock on the left. This hike is not only extremely fun with excellent views from the top, but there’s also legit cell phone service from the top! If you want to quickly send or receive text messages, this is the place. The hike to the top isn’t too difficult, but paying attention to the cairns is important (stacked rocks that serve as guide posts), especially when it’s hot and easy to get disoriented.

Whale Rock shade | TeamTravelsBlog
Whale Rock shade | TeamTravelsBlog

Once you’re at the top, the large rocks provide some shade as well. Before the fork in the road, we stopped at the Green River Overlook for a view of the other river.

Since the ranger told us her favorite spot was the White Rim Overlook, we knew we had to go check it out. This is back on the original road as if you’re heading toward the Grand View Point Overlook, but it’s on the left and the sign only reads “Hiking Trails”. In other words, it’s well hidden until you park and find the trailhead sign that indicates the white rim overlook mile level walk is only 0.8 miles away. This place is so cool! There are huge imprints in the rock that look like dinosaur prints. This is another trail that requires paying attention to the cairns. We headed out close to sunset and were rewarded with incredible views. We had the place to ourselves, which was perfect, until the sun went down and we found ourselves here, in the dark, with only our dying phone flashlight to help us find the cairns.

Sunset at White Rim Overlook
Sunset at White Rim Overlook | TeamTravelsBlog

We were thankful when we made it back to the car and came across a deer on our drive heading out of the park. We stopped at the closed visitor center to refill our water bottles and found there were tons of bats guarding the entrance. This was a bit scary. We took our time driving out of the park, cognizant that animals could appear anywhere and made our way back to I-70 east toward Colorado. We drove about two hours to Parachute, Colorado where we found a good rest station for the night with the best restrooms we had seen in days. In other words, these flushed!

Come with us to the White River National Forest near Aspen tomorrow to see one of the most photographed places in all of Colorado – Maroon Bells! From here we will take you to the 7th and final national park of our trip!

Shuttle through Zion

Watchman Trail at Zion National Park | TeamTravelsBlog

Arrive early at Zion National Park for the best parking. There’s a hike for all skill levels here and a mandatory shuttle that takes you to all of the points of interest.

Zion National Park Highlights on Friday, September 1, 2017

  • Emerald Pools
  • Riverwalk Trail
  • Watchman Trail
  • Weeping Rock
  • Court of the Patriarch

Zion National Park is an easy two hour drive from Bryce National Park. We arrived before the 7 am sunrise and as we drove the windy road came across two big horned sheep crossing the road before the tunnel. I was lucky enough to whip out my iPhone fast enough to catch a video! Similar to Bryce Canyon, Zion costs $30 per car and is tied for the most expensive Utah national park (buy the Annual National Park Pass). Unlike the other parks, Zion has a mandatory shuttle that takes approximately 80 minutes to complete a full loop. If you’re like us and arrive super early, you’ll be able to find a parking spot in the park. We parked on the main path by the Canyon Junction shuttle stop (#3). If you want to see the shuttle route, check out this site: https://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/upload/MG-Spring-2017-ZION-WEB.pdf

After parking, we walked along the Virgin River for a little bit. There’s a wide paved path along the river where you can take beautiful pictures, see unique bugs and catch the morning bikers go by. Zion 1From here we took the shuttle from Canyon Junction (#3) to Zion Lodge (#5). We went to the road and followed the signs to the Emerald Pools. The walk is quite steep and the lower and upper falls were our favorite. When you leave the middle level emerald pool, take the Kayenta Trail. This will take you to the Grotto (#6) and gives you fabulous views of the Virgin River. Zion 2Keep your eyes peeled – we looked down at the river and spotted a deer standing in the water taking a drink. We saw tons of wild turkey at the Grotto. There’s also a place to fill up your water bottles and use the facilities here. If you’re up for the challenge, you can complete the strenuous hike up Angel’s Landing.

As it neared lunchtime, we took the shuttle to the last stop, the Temple of Sinawava (#9). There are lots of places to sit here and eat lunch, just be weary of the squirrels trying to steal your food. The Riverside Walk is a paved and easy two mile round-trip walk that starts here. The walk ends at the Narrows, which looks beyond incredible if the weather is right. If you’re considering this as part of your adventure, I would recommend this site which offers the appropriate rental gear.

Zion 3

It seemed like everyone we saw was wearing the Adidas hydro lace canyoneering boots and had hiking poles* to keep steady while wading through the water.

 

We needed a break to catch our breath so we took the shuttle to the Visitor Center (#1). If you haven’t gotten a park map and newspaper yet, this is a chance to get them. It was nice to sit in the air conditioning, eat our snacks and re-hydrate. From the Visitor Center, we walked to the Watchman trailhead. This hike has many switchbacks and limited shade in the afternoon, but it quickly became our favorite hike of the day. We saw lots of birds, butterflies and the views from the top are unmatched. When you reach the top, there’s a sign that points to an extra loop – take it! You won’t regret it. Zion 4Considering it was the heat of the day when we hiked, we didn’t see many others on this trail, but we got lucky at the end and saw a grey fox!

Thankfully, the continuous shuttle gives you the opportunity to see almost everything along the main path. We took the shuttle to Weeping Rock (#7). It’s an extremely steep climb, but probably takes less than 45 minutes round-trip and is a cool point of interest. From here we took the shuttle to the Court of the Patriarchs (#4) and found another easy to see point of interest. The three sandstone peaks are named Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. You can read more about them at the viewpoint or hear about them on the narrated shuttle ride.

As the day neared sunset, we headed back to Canyon Junction (#3) to watch the sunset with others along the bridge over the Virgin River. Like the other national parks, watching the lighting change on the oversized sandstone rocks is a site worth photographing. We made the drive out of Zion National Park and were lucky to find a last minute deal through Booking.com for Sun-n-Sand Motel about 35 minutes away and in the direction of the Grand Canyon. I love Booking.com because you can make your reservation and pay once you arrive. If you use my link to make a booking, we’ll each get $20. We were lucky to book the motel for under $80. The motel was nice, clean and offered a free breakfast (think cereal, donuts, coffee, etc.). It’s also in a little town called Kanab that offers a grocery store called Glazier’s Market and gas stations.

Wake up with us tomorrow at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, our fifth of seven national parks.

Sunset on the Hoodoos

Bryce Canyon National Park at Sunset | Teamtravelsblog

The famous hoodoos make Bryce Canyon National Park unique from the surrounding parks. Walk the rim of the canyon, see the sunset illuminate the rocks and try to photograph the pretty blue birds.

Bryce Canyon National Park Highlights on Thursday, August 31, 2017

  • Natural Bridge
  • Rainbow Point
  • Bryce’s Point – Bryce’s Amphitheatre and the hoodoos
  • Inspiration Point
  • Rim Trail between Sunrise and Sunset Points (1 mile roundtrip), see Thor’s Hammer

Bryce Canyon is the most expensive national park in Utah at $30 per car. Again, another reason to make sure you purchase the Annual National Park Pass for $80. When you go through the toll booth, the park ranger will give you a map and a newspaper. The newspaper is super helpful because it gives you advice for easy, moderate and difficult hikes toward the back of the paper which is consistent across parks. Different from the last two parks we visited, Bryce Canyon offers an optional shuttle service to see the different points of interest. We opted to drive from point to point instead and fortunately, never had an issue with finding parking. If you’re looking to follow along, check out this park map: https://www.nps.gov/brca/planyourvisit/upload/BRCAmap.pdf

We started down the main road (make sure to watch your speed as there are a number of park rangers monitoring this) and stopped at Farview Point followed by the Natural Bridge. Bryce Canyon 1Before making a stop, the park doesn’t appear to be that impressive. It’s probably because you don’t realize you’re driving along a canyon until you actually pull into a parking lot and look over the edge. As we continued toward the end of the road to see Rainbow Point, we pulled into the lots at Aqua Point and Ponderosa Point to take in these views. If you have the better part of a day and don’t plan on doing extensive hiking, you’ll have time to stop at each point of interest.

When we arrived at the Rainbow Point parking lot, we took the first spot we found. While it’s a relatively large parking lot, it fills up quickly close to lunch time since many people picnic here. There are a few good viewing points overlooking the canyon. Bryce Canyon 2Make sure to take some time to hike here. An easy, short trail is the Bristlecone Loop which is about 1 mile. If you’re lucky, you’ll see a Peregrine Falcon diving into the canyon (we were not). We did, however, see some of the largest ravens we’ve ever seen searching the picnic grounds for scraps.

On our way toward Bryce Point near the front of the park, we popped out of the car for pictures at the other pull offs along the scenic drive. Black Birch and Swamp Canyons were the other parts of the scenic drive worth stopping to see.

Bryce Point and this particular view of the Bryce Amphitheatre is incomparable to anything else. There are so many hoodoos!! Hoodoos instantly became our favorite “national park” related word. Bryce Canyon 9Hoodoos are the skinny and tall rock formations that you see everywhere at this park. The walk along the rim in the direction of Inspiration Point is definitely worth it. There is so much to take in at this particular stop. If you’re short on time, drive to Inspiration Point (or take the shuttle). We arrived to two deer grazing here and then headed to the rim to see the sun hitting the red rocks. If you’re up for the challenge, climb the steep hill to get the best vantage point from the top. While we did not use hiking poles*, we saw lots of people who were using these collapsible ones* on our trip. If you’re interested in having a pair for yourself, check these out on Amazon*.Bryce Canyon 4To end our time at Bryce Canyon National Park, we parked at Sunset Point. The walk between Sunset Point and Sunrise Point is incredible. If you have the right shoes and are up for the challenge, take a hike into the canyon. We enjoyed walking the rim of the canyon, spotting the pretty blue birds and watching the sun start to set and illuminate the rocks. We also spotted Thor’s Hammer, which is one of the better known and photographed hoodoos. As we awaited the sunset, fancy photographers gathered to find the best spots to capture the lighting change as the sun went down.

We found a decent place to carsleep outside of the park. My limit is three days in a row, so I was looking forward to a hot shower and bed for the next evening! Follow me to the next article to read about our incredible journey at Zion National Park – the fourth of seven national parks.

Petro-fied by Capitol Reef

Capitol Reef National Park | Teamtravelsblog

We visited 7 National Parks in 7 Days! Capitol Reef National Park in Utah was our second park of the trip after Arches and before Bryce Canyon. Be sure to check out all 7 parks!

Capitol Reef National Park Highlights on Wednesday, August 30 and Thursday, August 31, 2017

  • Panorama Point
  • Goosenecks Overlook
  • Sunset Point
  • Scenic Drive and the Capitol Gorge
  • Hickman Bridge
  • The Petroglyphs

Arriving at Capitol Reef National Park in the afternoon was perfect because we made it to the Visitor Center before it closed. This allowed us to grab a map and use their facilities. If you need a map, here is a good one: https://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/national_parks/capitol_reef_park97.pdf The road beyond the Visitor Center, the Scenic Drive, is the only part of the park that you have to pay for and it’s the least expensive National Park in Utah at $10. We drove to Panorama Point and were impressed by the views. Capitol Reef 1The way the light hits the colorful rocks is incredible. A bit farther up the road, which is windy, rocky and narrow, we made it to a small parking lot by Goosenecks Overlook and Sunset Point. The Goosenecks Overlook was our first time looking into a canyon and it is breathtaking.

Capitol Reef 9

It’s hard to fathom that this is a natural creation versus a man-made one. We timed it right and walked along Sunset Point as it drew nearer to sunset. I’m not sure how we got so lucky, but we had the views to ourselves. There are a few benches along the path to sit and enjoy the view.

Almost across the street is another point of interest called Chimney Rock. We saw lots of kids enjoying the huge mounds of dirt – running up and down – burning energy. We enjoyed a short walk here before we headed to the scenic drive still shortly ahead of sunset. Capitol Reef 3We had to drive very carefully as we saw many deer along the road near the campsites. It is cool to reflect that we ended up seeing deer at six out of the seven national parks that we visited during our vacation. We drove along the Scenic Drive until we made it to the signs that read Capitol Gorge. We didn’t exactly know what we were in for either. This is an extremely narrow and scary drive.

Capitol Gorge

It is closed it if rains and it is terrifying when another car approaches you on the path. Fortunately, we made it to the small parking lot at the end and it really was an experience that shouldn’t be missed. If you’re looking for a self-guided tour, the national park service offers this guide with recommended stops. By this point it was dark on our drive back along the Scenic Drive.

Torrey, Utah is the closest small city to Capitol Reef National Park where we found a good place to carsleep for the night. It’s located on the west side of the park beyond Panoramic and Twin Rocks. While it’s not far mileage-wise, it’s important to drive carefully as it’s windy and there are deer to be cognizant of.

In the morning, we drove to the Hickman Bridge parking lot. We actually passed this on our way in from Arches National Park. It’s a small parking lot with two restrooms in the parking lot that remain unlocked. You will definitely want to have a flashlight* if you arrive early as well as hand sanitizer* for afterwards. The bathrooms are dark, there are flies and no running water. Luckily, you can do all of your shopping on Amazon before your trip. Capitol ReefThe beginning of the hike is very easy and relatively flat along the river. Then there is quite a steep climb before reaching a point before you then start walking down again. We saw lots of playful chipmunks and a few amphibians, but no snakes thankfully! The arch is awesome once you arrive. Enjoy calling out so you can hear your voice echo back. Once you go under the arch, we found it challenging to find and stay on the path, but fortunately made it around the loop as the sign recommended (counterclockwise direction).Capitol Reef 10

From here, we headed to see the Petroglyphs. Seeing a piece of history etched onto the rock is incredible. The first wooden dock explains the petroglyphs and points them out. If you continue along the longer wooden bridge, keep your eyes peeled and see if you can spot some of the unsigned petroglyphs. When you continue on your journey, you’ll pass through the Fruita Historic District where I read you can pick and eat fruit. Before completely leaving the park, we stopped for a shot of the Twin Rocks and the Capitol Reef National Park sign.

We left the park before mid-day and drove about 2.5 hours to Bryce Canyon National Park. There is more than one way to get to this park. We did not follow the sign that pointed toward Bryce Canyon, but rather took the GPS directed way. It took us through a lot of farmlands and we did not see any gas stations, so make sure you fill up in Torrey before making this leg of the trip. Follow me to the next article to read about our adventure through Bryce Canyon, the third of seven national parks.

Arch You Red?

Arches National Park | Teamtravelsblog

We visited 7 National Parks in 7 Days! Arches National Park in Utah was our first park of the trip after leaving Denver. Be sure to check out all 7 parks!

Arches National Park Highlights on Wednesday, August 30, 2017

  • Balanced Rock
  • Sand Dune Arch
  • View from La Sal Mountain
  • Landscape Arch in Garden of the Gods
  • Note: The Windows Section of the park was closed during our trip and the park was only open from 7 am – 7 pm.

We arrived to the Denver, Colorado airport on Tuesday evening, picked up our full sized rental car and drove to the Wal-mart in Avon, Colorado. Do your due diligence and read the tiny print when booking a Denver rental car. Not all car companies offer out of state driving or unlimited miles. We came across a few companies (the ones with the cheapest rental prices) that had these limitations. We picked this particular Wal-mart as our driving destination for the evening because it’s a 24-hour store, which was perfect for picking up snacks, using the bathroom and finding a quiet corner of the parking lot to sleep.

We woke up super early to drive the remaining 3.5 hours to Arches National Park. There is an Exxon station before you get to the park when approaching from the highway, that’s a bit pricey, but worth it for the peace of mind of having a full tank of gas. Alternatively, you can drive past Arches and into Moab to fill up with gas. Immediately after making the turn into Arches National Park, there’s a place to pull off and pose with the Arches National Park sign. Arches 1If you arrive before the park opens, there’s no one at the gate, however, if you plan on seeing multiple National Parks, it’s worth spending the $80 to get the Annual National Park Pass as most of the parks average $25 for admittance.

It’s worth printing the map (https://www.nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/upload/archmap.pdf) from the National Park Services (NPS) site before you start your trip and then getting a fancy one at the Visitor Center later in the day. We stopped at the Courthouse Towers Viewpoint first to take in the beautiful red rocks. From here we continued north on the main path to Balanced Rock. Arches 2One benefit of starting early is you’re likely to beat the tour busses that are bound to come and stop at these points of interest. Balanced Rock is perfect for taking a short stroll and stretching your legs from the car ride.

As I mentioned at the top, the famous Windows Section of the park was closed. We headed east when the road split to see the Delicate Arch. Unfortunately, since Mike was still healing from a broken foot, we didn’t have the opportunity to take the walk up to the arch, where I believe it would have appeared to be much larger than it did from the viewpoint. Everything I read said this is a really nice hike that we will definitely plan to do the next time. From here, we headed back to the fork in the road along the other path to the Sand Dune Arch. This was a highlight for us. It was a fun walk through the sand to see the arch.Arches 5

There are other places between Sand Dune Arch and the Devils Garden to stop and take pictures.

Arches 3

We stopped a few times before parking by the Devils Garden. It was a decent walk to the Landscape Arch. Make sure to bring tons of water as it can get very hot and there is limited shade for a reprieve. Many people start or end their day at the Devils Garden as the heat can be treacherous. If you plan on doing lots of hiking, I highly recommend my Columbia hiking boots* which aren’t too heavy and are waterproof. We drove back along the main drag and made our last major stop at the La Sal Mountain viewpoint. This is an incredible view with lots of points of interest to take in such as the Three Gossips, the Tower of Babel and the Organ.

We wrapped up our Arches National Park visit at the Visitor Center where we were able to get a map and newspaper, use the facilities and fill up our water bottles. From here we drove about 5 miles to Moab and made it to Wicked Brew Espresso Drive Thru before it closed. Arches 4This little trailer coffee shop offered delicious iced lattes with unique flavor combinations.

The two and a half hour drive to Capitol Reef National Park had a variety of terrains and seemed as though we were driving through national parks the entire time. It’s essentially a one lane road in each direction the whole way. Check out my next article to learn more about our adventures here and the subsequent ones to read all about our 7 parks in 7 days trip!